Hiroshima

Hiroshima, Japan September 2024 £1 = ¥188

It's embarrassing, to boldly walk up to a ticket gate and feed the gate a ticket that gets rejected. We were so confident that the expensive £125 Setouchi passes covered all forms of transport, but the first time we go to use them we were proved wrong. "Only on JR lines", the rail attendant blandly informed us, seemingly used to tourists making this same mistake. It wasn't a big deal, we had loaded money onto our digital SUICA cards (a tap on/tap off transport card) and got through using those, it was just more frustrating that we hadn't bought what we thought we had.

I was excited to ride the Shinkansen (bullet train) for the first time, despite how nerdy that makes me sound. Everyone talks about how wonderful it is, how fast, how luxurious, how smooth. To give it it’s due, at 200mph it was fast: the countryside outside the window seemed to blur together like a Monet. It was luxurious, the seats had just enough room to fix our luggage in front of us and it was very clean despite the lack of bins. But smooth? I wouldn’t say it was smooth. Maybe it was a smooth as a thing can be whilst hurtling full speed down metal tracks but it wasn’t as imperceptible as I had assumed it would be. I thought I would be able to get some writing done in the hour we would ride the train, but the slightly rollercoaster-esque movements of the Shinkansen set off my motion sickness and it wasn’t meant to be. 

When we arrived in Hiroshima we promptly marched ourselves to a sleek, shiny hotel near the train station ready to drop off our bags for a day of sightseeing. Much to our chagrin this would be the second mistake we would make that day, although we had booked a “Daiwa Roynet Hiroshima” Hotel it wasn’t that one - the one we booked was much further away… and when we finally got there, not quite as nice and shiny. It was in a better location for some of the sightseeing, so that was positive and in getting there we figured out we could use our passes on the sightseeing bus, so that was good as well. So we arrived and we checked-in, and we wondered at the delights of a business hotel.  It was basic but serviceable, a double bed, a desk, a small but deep bathtub and of course, pyjamas. 

The third mistake of the day came with our choice in activities. As it was a travel day, and that always takes more energy, we just planned a nice wander around Hijyama Park - which honestly made more sense when we’d planned our day from the wrong hotel. Determined to carry on, we jumped on public transport and made the 30 minute journey. When we got there, it wasn’t really what we had expected. It wasn’t so much a park as drivable roads that happen to pass through woodland and the occasional viewpoint. It was also astronomically hot. There were some highlights, like the Henry Moore sculpture we came across, (strangely the second of the trip with the other one being outside Hakata Train station) with its graceful cast bronze arch proudly framing the city below. 

So the day was a bit of a bust but we had high hopes for dinner. Many places in Japan have their own special cuisines and dishes - one that particularly appealed to us here was Hiroshima style okonomiyaki. The name, literally translated, breaks into two parts “okonomi” - as you like and “yaki” meaning fried or grilled.  The base elements of the dish are a wheat-based batter, cabbage, bonito and pork and to this toppings are added. To make a normal okonomiyaki “Hiroshima style” some noodles are fried as a base and the rest of the ingredients are served on top.  

When we searched on google to find a restaurant that would offer a pescatarian friendly version, we came across Teppei, a highly rated okonomiyaki restaurant only a twenty minute walk from where we were staying. Not having got used to Japan's habit of hiding away hundreds of restaurants in unassuming buildings or in underground arcades with little to no signage - we initially couldn’t find it. When we eventually noticed it said “3rd floor” next to the restaurants name on google maps, we let ourselves into the building we were led to and found row upon row of okonomiyaki restaurants and we just had to find the right one. Of course, when we arrived there was a queue for seating - as none of the other restaurants were online I couldn’t check out if they’d cater for my diet so we decided to stick to the one we’d chosen. 

It was only a ten minute wait before we were all seated, everyone in the line sat around the large flat grill where our food would be prepared. Orders were taken, I chose the fried egg topping and specified for it be without pork and Ben went with a meat-heavy pork and beef version. The ladies behind the counter then got to work, first layering a thin circle of batter before adding a large amount of shredded white cabbage on top. Once that had time to cook down, bonito flakes were added along with other seasonings, pork was added to everyone else’s pile, then another layer of batter was squirted on top before the whole thing was flipped over to continue cooking on the grill. Noodles were portioned out and also began to fry, and toppings were cooking in neat piles next to the okonomiyaki they would be placed with. Finally, the whole thing was assembled, sauce was added and the finished dish was slid in front of us, still on the grill to keep warm while we ate it.

 To eat it, we were given a small sharp metal spatular reminiscent of a tool that an oil painter would use, and chopsticks. We would carve small portions off to place on our tiny plates, and as the grill further away from us produced more heat, the dish seemed to get hotter the further we got in eating it. It was delicious, and filling, and despite the specific tools given, not overly easy to eat. I didn’t manage to finish mine, not realising how enormous the portions would be we had also ordered a portion of scallops that we shared as a starter - these were also perfectly cooked. At ¥5500 (including a drink each), it wasn’t the cheapest price for whats traditionally a “street food” - but we thoroughly enjoyed the performance of the experience and the food was pretty great too.  

We started our second day in Hiroshima by visiting the peace memorial park. Created in 1954, the park is dedicated to everyone who was affected by the nuclear bomb that detonated over the city on 6th August 1945. In the centre of the park sits the Memorial Cenotaph, which holds the names of all the people killed in the atomic attack, and through its arch the Peace Flame can be seen - an ever-burning flame that will only be extinguished when the world is free from the threat of nuclear bombs. The west side of the park holds the Memorial Mound, an unassuming grass-covered knoll that is the final resting place for the cremated remains of 70,000 unidentified victims of the bomb, a knoll that seemed far too small after we learned how many were interred there. 

Peace Cranes on the Children's Monument

We wandered through the park, reading each sculptures dedication, making our way to one of Hiroshimas most recognised buildings, the A-bomb Dome. When the bomb detonated over Hiroshima, it wasn’t just lives that were taken but most of the city was completely flattened too leaving less that 50 buildings remaining. Directly under the blast, the Prefectural Industrial Promotion Hall should have been completely destroyed but somehow it’s skeletal remains were left standing. There was a lot of debate whether to flatten the building, but in the end it was decided to preserve it exactly how it was left after the bomb as a reminder, the only changes being a interior metal frame that was added to stabilise the building ensuring it wouldn’t degrade. This building, of all the memorials in the park, was the one that showed the reality of the nuclear attack the most and it felt surreal standing next to a perfectly manicured hedge looking at the piles of rubble and destruction that surrounded the building itself. 

The museum was the hardest part of the park to visit. First was a diorama that showed Hiroshima how it once was, before showing it blow all away as the bomb was detonated: and although that was shocking it was nothing compared to what we came next. Room after room after room of photos. Some showing the destruction of the city but mostly showing the victims, some of them were dead but many were alive and in severe pain. The museum was confronting, and the overcrowding of the exhibits made the museum claustrophobic too, we shuffled from exhibit to exhibit elbow to elbow with those around us, never finding a spot to breath and digest what we were seeing. A few moments shocked me out of my mind-weary absorbing, a child throwing up clearly disturbed by the graphic nature of what he was seeing and a woman's inappropriate giggling that set my teeth on edge. When we finally made it to the end we couldn’t wait to head outside and take a breath of fresh air, ready to take a break from seeing the horror which humanity can inflict. 

Needing a distraction, we decided to see what Japan had to offer in the terms of second hand goods and we came across Super Bookoff Bazaar: a shop that seemed to offer everything. There were musical instruments and cameras, games and old consoles, second hand clothing, vintage designer gear and a selection of beautiful but worn Kimono and of course, books. After a thorough search we managed to come away with a couple of pieces of clothing and a fancy looking bumbag. We were interested in the camera gear but as we couldn’t read the labels we were unsure if the lenses were just so cheap because they had issues and decided to leave them behind!

Still in search of a little peace after the memorial museum, we hopped on the bus to Shukkeien Garden. Although its origins date back to the 1600s, when it was meticulously designed for a feudal lord's private use, Shukkeien has since evolved into a tranquil sanctuary for all to enjoy. The garden's transition from private estate to public haven occurred in 1940 and in 1945 it  served as a refuge for those injured in the atomic bomb attack.

Upon our arrival at Shukkeien Garden, the heavens opened up and gentle raindrops began to fall. Rather than dampening our spirits, the rain added relaxing soundtrack to our experience, the drops of water bouncing off the lake and surrounding foliage enhanced the tranquility of the garden. As we made our way through the lush greenery and carefully manicured landscapes, we couldn't help but be impressed with the gardens resilience. Despite being severely affected by the nuclear attack, the garden held a sense of timelessness that transcended the centuries, personified by two ancient trees that survived the attack.

Our last day in Hiroshima wasn’t spent in the city at all, but on the nearby Miyajima Island. Just an hour away from the city, it is famous for the iconic giant tori gate that seems to grow from the water during high tide. It’s also inhabited by friendly deer and as much as I love learning about different cultures religions, I have to admit the deer were just as much of a draw for me. The journey there was smooth, a street car, followed by a local train and ferry service (which were covered by our Setouchi passes). 

As we hadn’t had breakfast, the first thing we did when we arrived was to sit and eat the kombini food we’d brought with us... and we were immediately set on by deers. Luckily they were small enough to keep at bay but they sure weren’t taking no for an answer, trying to sneak bites of food as we were trying to eat. They eventually got the memo we weren’t giving in and we were left in peace - we were also pretty much out of food at this point so that might have had something to do with it. 

The island was charming, dotted with rows of traditional houses filled with shops and restaurants and home to intricately and uniquely decorated shrines and temples. For those who didn't want to walk, rickshaws carted people down the crowded main streets, pulled by runners who sweated in the humid 35 degree heat. There was also a cable car that could have taken us up to the top of the mountain, but as it was a cloudy day and the ticket line was over an hour long we decided to give it a miss. With nothing left to do but explore, we spent a few hours walking around the main town, following paths that took us from temple to temple, leading us up and down the tree covered mountainside.

One of the most memorable temples during our visit was the Daisho-in Temple. Nestled at the base of Mount Misen, this temple had a serene and mystical atmosphere that immediately drew me in. What truly stood out were the hundreds of tiny Buddha statues that adorned the temple grounds, each (for no discernible reason) were adorned with vibrant red knitted hats. This whimsical sight added a touch of charm and uniqueness to the spiritual setting.

As we made my way down the temple's many stairs, a subtle detail caught my attention. Along the stair rail, worn metal prayer wheels were embedded. These prayer wheels were inscribed with the sacred Prajnaparamita Sutra, a text of profound wisdom that is more common in North Indian buddhist temples. As I ran my hands along each and every one, spinning them without a single squeal of metal upon metal I couldn't help but think of the temples we'd visited in Darhmashala. It was there we first learnt about this practice and how temple devotees believe that spinning the wheels was a from of prayer and brought them luck.

We could have had lunch on the Island, but due to it’s touristy nature the restaurants prices all seemed inflated so we decided to hop on the ferry and see what our options were like on the other side. We came across Oshokujidokoro Miyajimaguchi, a small traditional restaurant that specialised in seafood. We both had a lunch set, and I chose the soy mackerel while Ben chose the tempura eel. Alongside the main dish, the set consisted of rice, cabbage, pickled vegetables and a small bowl of miso soup. It was all delicious, the mackerel was cooked perfectly, flaking apart and the soy it was simmered in wasn’t overwhelming. The eel was soft with a delightfully crunchy tempura and surprisingly un-fishy taste. Although when we first received our lunch the serving seemed small, it was exactly the right amount of food, leaving us satisfied without being painfully full. Looking at the traditional setting and amazing food we were ready for a hefty bill to go alongside it, but in the end (including a bottle of Sake Ben enjoyed) our meal came to under ¥3000. 

We had thoroughly enjoyed our time in Hiroshima and were excited to see what was next. So after a afternoon of lazily exploring the shops we got an early night (soaking in the comfort of our practical Japanese business hotel room), ready to leave the next day and explore our next stop : Kurashiki.