Have you ever had a suspiciously custard like hollandaise on your eggs royal? I have, it's not something I'd really recommend but if you can try it for yourselves at Kekerengu Store and Camping's onsite cafe. I don't think I'm being completely fair here, it was a lovely campsite despite the windy and blustery weather, the cafe itself was artfully decorated in appearance and their selection of cakes were great... its just a bad breakfast always leaves a lingering impression. Anyway, we was only there for the one night and only as it was a convenient stopping point on the long journey back north.
As we traveled up the coastline the weather shifted dramatically, gone were the threatening dark clouds and instead bright blues skies spanned the horizons. Maybe that's why we enjoyed the next campsite, or maybe it was just that lovely. Marfells campsite was a basic DOC camp, situated on a grass bluff next to a wide sparse beach. We managed to snag a great spot on a tiny little hill giving us views over the bushes to the ocean beyond.
Our first day there we ventured south along the beach until the sand transitioned to rocky wetlands as we headed to the bluff. We could have carried on walking till we met up with a lighthouse far in the distance, but we was in no way prepared for such an intense hike. Instead, the next day, we headed north, aiming for a fishing jetty so Ben could try and catch us some dinner. The fish were evidentiary not hungry on this occasion, so after a while we headed back to the van taking a different route that snaked though the sedge covered dunes.
There was one part of the South Island we hadn't yet explored, the part of the Marlborough Sounds north of Havelock, called the Pelerous Sound so thats were we headed next, specifically chosing Elaine Bay. On our way to Elaine Bay we decided to break up the trip and stop for a night at Onamalutu Campsite. Unfortunately the recent rains left the grass camping area out of bounds for our little old van, and annoyingly the toilets were situated up a small sodden incline that soaked our shoes every time we made the trip. It was looking like a bad choice all round... but then we went on a walk and made friends with a pig which really cheered us up.
So Onamalutu wasn't the best but Elaine Bay more than made up for it, a beautiful and selcluded bay, with the only downside being that it was a bit of pain to get to. The winding thin road that sweeps over the mountains, climibing up and down into different bays along the way is also in terrible condition; pot holes were the least of our worries, we'd never know if around the next corner the road would continue or if our side had broken away leaving a jagged gap with views of the valley far below. The campsite itself, when we finally arrived, was basic, a small patch of grass, two drop toilets and a picnic bench or two, but the unimpeded view across the bay was magnificent.
We spent a happy few days relaxing here; walking through the shady woods that line one side of the bay, fishing off the jetty and soaking in the atmosphere. We weren't the only ones who thought this bay was pretty great, a school of rays thought so too. They were so inquisitive, coming to swim right up to us seeing what we were up to (and what bait they could nab).
I think that's one the things I'm going to miss the most about living in a van, the ever changing view while keeping some home comforts. When else can you arrive to a place with no facilities, but still sit comfy and sheltered from the weather, while enjoying a cup of tea and the most stunning views.
Still, as always, we were limited on space in our small portable home, so after a few days we had to head off to some where else so we could stock up on some food and the gas to cook it.
Luckily for us Okiwi Bay was just a quick 40 minute drive and we only have to traverse one mountain in the process too. The campsite we stayed at was fine and as the only ones there we had the whole camp kitchen for ourselves. The bay where the campsite was, was pretty enough and we spent an afternoon wandering along the shore before finding a comfy rock to sit and read on. That lasted until the sandflies came out in force and we had to retreat before we were covered in itchy weapy bites.
With only a day left until our ferry, we headed back to familiar ground and a campsite we'd stayed at before. Rarangi is a popular beach side DOC site just half an hour from Picton - the only place to get the ferry to the North Island. So we stayed there for the night, spent some time relaxing on the beach and continued our never-ending search for a job before grabbing the ferry the next day.
**If you've still got some time why not check out our video from our time in Marlbourgh and see all the sights for yourself**
Trip date : May 2023
Last time : Re-exploring Banks Penisular, Canterbury
Up next : Napier
Great chapter, loved the rays and the video was spectacular and was just like being with you both without me being annoying and eating all the cake xx